I love Tempranillo – it’s an exceptionally versatile grape with a great range of flavors. Similar to Pinot Noir, another favorite, it’s very mutable with many different clones, and thus can be made in a variety of styles, ranging from lighter, almost Pinot-ish examples to full-bodied, high-alcohol, oaked examples closer to Cabernet Sauvignon. Additionally, producers in Spain can range from ultra-traditional winemaking styles (American oak, oxidative treatment, long barrel and bottle aging) to modern (more extraction, new French oak, fresher and cleaner style), adding further variety to the mix. The wines at a recent tasting showcased the full range – all delicious, all different.
Protocolo 2006 Tierra de Castilla ($7.95): A killer wine for under $10. Unoaked, so fresh, clean, and juicy, with fresh strawberry and cherry flavors, and a hint of Tempranillo’s classic leatheriness. This wine is routinely one of the most popular in the shop, and with good reason. Not incredibly complex, but tastes far more expensive than it is.
Puelles 2001 Rioja Reserva ($24.95): A big step up in quality (and a decent jump in price, so it should be). Reservas by law have to age at least one year in barrel and two in bottle, though most do more of each. This was a very well-made example of a traditional style, with more dried fruit and leather characteristics, yet still clean and with vibrant acidity. What I like about Puelles (a pretty tiny producer) is that their Reservas tastes like what Reservas should and their Crianzas (which we also carry; they spend less time in oak, current vintage is 2004) taste like Crianzas – too many Reservas taste like Crianzas that just spend longer in barrel, while this has the fruit to support it.
Paisajes 2004 “V” Rioja ($34.95): A modern-style Rioja, so a nice contrast to the Puelles. In 1998, Finca Allende, a highly regarded winery in Rioja, and Vila Viniteca, a fine wine shop in Barcelona, formed a partnership in La Rioja called ‘Paisajes y Viñedos’ (Landscapes & Vineyards), selecting each year different vineyards belonging to different owners and paying above-market prices to ensure the best grapes. Originally, the regional laws forbid printing the town, the vineyard or origin name on the label, so the winery gave each vineyard-designate wine a number to identify each type of ‘Paisajes’ (The laws have now changed; vineyard designates are allowed). The Paisajes V is from the Valsalado vineyard, a blend of 40% Tempranillo, 40% Garnacha, 10% Graciano, and 10% Mazuelo. Dark fruit, fairly full bodied, lively on the palate, much fruitier than the Puelles (because of the abundance of Grenache) yet still has that old-world chactacter of minerality and elegance. Personally my favorite wine of the night.
Emilio Moro 2005 Ribera del Duero ($29.95): A close second for my wine of the night. 100% Tempranillo, from the warmer Riberal del Duero region. Richer than Riojas; like a more concentrated version, with cherry, spice, earthiness, leather, still with that good acidity and brightness. Traditional producer, yet like the Puelles very clean and well made. (If I sound too positive about all the wines I write about for the tastings, it’s because I select them quite rigorously in advance so that we only feature wines that we believe are great examples for the region/varietal/style). 14.5% alcohol, but you wouldn’t know it by tasting. Impeccable balance, will drink well for several more years.
Numanthia Termes 2006 Toro: ($28.95): The modern counterpart to the Moro: Lush, fruit-forward, high-alcohol (15%; the maximum allowed by Toro law), new French oak. This 100% Tempranillo is a very cool wine. The Termes is Numanthia’s entry level wine – they also make a killer Numanthia (only two cases came into the state; we got one of them – old ungrafted vines, miniscule yields of 1.16 tons/acre; massive wine, smooth now, exceptionally ageworthy) and a ridiculously expensive Termanthia. The Termes is 30-year-old ungrafted vines, very low yields. Big dark fruit, lots of spicy oak; if you like Cab, you’ll love this. Slightly disjointed now in my opinion, but will integrate in 6-8 months and be delicious over the next 8 years. The winery was recently bought by LVMH (luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy), so we’ll see what happens.